ANTIGUA
The 411 - This old capital is a UNESCO Heritage Site for good reason. I spent 2 weeks total here over the Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) celebration - Wow! Unforgettable + HIGHLY recommended. Get here a week early to find a room, or book online, as they're very hard to come by. Festivities go around the clock and are some of the most colorful + elaborate I've seen anywhere. This would be worth doing as an independent trip in it's own right. Besides that, it's a beautiful place to study Spanish with all the western conveniences. Plan to hike up Volcan Pacaya one day.
LAGO ATITLAN
The 411 - Panajachel is INCREDIBLY touristy and can be used merely as a base for get to other towns on the lake. The market at Santiago is very photogenic. San Pedro is the big hang-out scene with foreigners staying indefinitely to live + study Spanish, while San Marcos attracts a more meditative crowd. Check out Las Piramides if you're interested in classes. The lake itself is beautiful, with the colors and clouds changing constantly and 3 volcanoes rising up above it.
CHICHICASTENANGO
The 411 - There's a HUGE, superbly photogenic market held here every Sunday, and it's worth getting there in advance to watch it all being set up. The religion here is a unique blend of traditional Mayan beliefs and Catholicism - Keep your eyes open for the Mayan Brotherhood.
QUETZALTENANGO (XELA)
The 411 - Come just as a base for heading to the Fuentes Feorginas Hot Springs if nothing else. I also hiked with a group up Volcan Santa Maria hoping to get a view of all the 30 something volcanoes in the chain here, but it was overcast and we just got glimpses. Oh well, it's the chance you take!
HUE HUE/TODOS SANTOS AREA
The 411 - This less-touristed area offers a good chance to view rural Guatemala. I spent a few days in the villages of Nebaj + Chajul and enjoyed them tremendously.
FLORES
The 411 - This quaint town on Lago Izabel is a nice break from the long journey between Guatemala City + Tikal.
TIKAL
The 411 - The setting itself is SPECTACULAR, as the ruins are buried deep in the jungle. A few have been excavated and you can climb to the top and get views over the tree canopy. You're also at eye-level for views of monkeys and birds too. Plan to spend at least a couple days to catch a dawn + dusk - Totally surreal!
LIVINGSTON
The 411 - A Garifuna town with alot of attitude. Search out the live music on Friday + Saturday nights - Total improv with musicians and singers coming and going, people switching instruments, etc. When I was there there were a couple kinds of drums, someone playing on giant tortoise shells and maracas. People here are super-friendly and many travelers decide to stay awhile. Take the Rio Dulce boat cruise to a natural hot spring WATERFALL at El Paraiso and soak to your hearts content. Plan to spend the night.
RECOMMENDED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY -
Fly into Guatemala City and head out immediately for Antigua (3-5 days) before continuing on to Lago Atitlan (2-4 days min. to catch the Santiago market) or Chichi (2-3 days min. to catch the market). Figure out dates to plan your schedule, but both should not be missed. Next up, Todos Santos Area (3-4 days) - if you have time and are looking for a more ethnic experience, or fly to Tikal for the ruins (2 days). With an extra week you could also check out Xela and the surrounding towns + hot springs (4-5 days) or head to Livingston + Rio Dulce for a Garifuna experience (4-5 days).
APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $5-10/1p
Meal - $1-4/pp
Beer - $2.00
Visa - 90 days FREE
What's to Like?
Bright colors, vibrant culture, lovely nature, spectacular ruins + tasty food make this an unforgettable destination.
What's Not?
The high crime rate + prevalence of weapons makes walking alone in the countryside a bad idea. There are alot of tourists here too and they've been coming for a long time, so don't expect to get away from it all.
Will you Starve to Death?
The food is good for both carnivores + vegetarians (as long as you're not worried about lard). Lots of beans, rice, tortillas, fruit + veggies and International cuisine in the more popular destinations.
Will you Dig It?
It was one of the highlights of my trip to Latin America and I'd return in a heartbeat, despite the negatives. Somehow, despite the development, it still feels more authentic and less packaged than Peru.
Check the "link" for photos of Guatemala and the "link" for Semana Santa
e enjte, 22 mars 2007
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