e enjte, 22 mars 2007

GUATEMALA Recommendations

ANTIGUA
The 411 - This old capital is a UNESCO Heritage Site for good reason. I spent 2 weeks total here over the Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) celebration - Wow! Unforgettable + HIGHLY recommended. Get here a week early to find a room, or book online, as they're very hard to come by. Festivities go around the clock and are some of the most colorful + elaborate I've seen anywhere. This would be worth doing as an independent trip in it's own right. Besides that, it's a beautiful place to study Spanish with all the western conveniences. Plan to hike up Volcan Pacaya one day.

LAGO ATITLAN
The 411 - Panajachel is INCREDIBLY touristy and can be used merely as a base for get to other towns on the lake. The market at Santiago is very photogenic. San Pedro is the big hang-out scene with foreigners staying indefinitely to live + study Spanish, while San Marcos attracts a more meditative crowd. Check out Las Piramides if you're interested in classes. The lake itself is beautiful, with the colors and clouds changing constantly and 3 volcanoes rising up above it.

CHICHICASTENANGO
The 411 - There's a HUGE, superbly photogenic market held here every Sunday, and it's worth getting there in advance to watch it all being set up. The religion here is a unique blend of traditional Mayan beliefs and Catholicism - Keep your eyes open for the Mayan Brotherhood.

QUETZALTENANGO (XELA)
The 411 - Come just as a base for heading to the Fuentes Feorginas Hot Springs if nothing else. I also hiked with a group up Volcan Santa Maria hoping to get a view of all the 30 something volcanoes in the chain here, but it was overcast and we just got glimpses. Oh well, it's the chance you take!

HUE HUE/TODOS SANTOS AREA
The 411 - This less-touristed area offers a good chance to view rural Guatemala. I spent a few days in the villages of Nebaj + Chajul and enjoyed them tremendously.

FLORES
The 411 - This quaint town on Lago Izabel is a nice break from the long journey between Guatemala City + Tikal.

TIKAL
The 411 - The setting itself is SPECTACULAR, as the ruins are buried deep in the jungle. A few have been excavated and you can climb to the top and get views over the tree canopy. You're also at eye-level for views of monkeys and birds too. Plan to spend at least a couple days to catch a dawn + dusk - Totally surreal!

LIVINGSTON
The 411 - A Garifuna town with alot of attitude. Search out the live music on Friday + Saturday nights - Total improv with musicians and singers coming and going, people switching instruments, etc. When I was there there were a couple kinds of drums, someone playing on giant tortoise shells and maracas. People here are super-friendly and many travelers decide to stay awhile. Take the Rio Dulce boat cruise to a natural hot spring WATERFALL at El Paraiso and soak to your hearts content. Plan to spend the night.


RECOMMENDED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY -
Fly into Guatemala City and head out immediately for Antigua (3-5 days) before continuing on to Lago Atitlan (2-4 days min. to catch the Santiago market) or Chichi (2-3 days min. to catch the market). Figure out dates to plan your schedule, but both should not be missed. Next up, Todos Santos Area (3-4 days) - if you have time and are looking for a more ethnic experience, or fly to Tikal for the ruins (2 days). With an extra week you could also check out Xela and the surrounding towns + hot springs (4-5 days) or head to Livingston + Rio Dulce for a Garifuna experience (4-5 days).

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $5-10/1p
Meal - $1-4/pp
Beer - $2.00
Visa - 90 days FREE

What's to Like?
Bright colors, vibrant culture, lovely nature, spectacular ruins + tasty food make this an unforgettable destination.

What's Not?
The high crime rate + prevalence of weapons makes walking alone in the countryside a bad idea. There are alot of tourists here too and they've been coming for a long time, so don't expect to get away from it all.

Will you Starve to Death?
The food is good for both carnivores + vegetarians (as long as you're not worried about lard). Lots of beans, rice, tortillas, fruit + veggies and International cuisine in the more popular destinations.

Will you Dig It?
It was one of the highlights of my trip to Latin America and I'd return in a heartbeat, despite the negatives. Somehow, despite the development, it still feels more authentic and less packaged than Peru.

Check the "link" for photos of Guatemala and the "link" for Semana Santa

BELIZE Recommendations

THE CAYES
The 411 - The numerous little islands that run all along the great barrier reef there. I spent several days on the dinky Tobacco Caye where I could literally stand in the middle of the island, do a 360, and see the carribean on all sides! Only 16 people live on the island, so you become like a little surrogate family. Very cool! Walk right off the beach for good snorkeling, check out fisherman catching lobster and conch, and just hang out. Caye Caulker also was recommended by pther travelers.

SAN IGNACIO (CAYO)
The 411 - Book a day tour to play in waterfalls, and another day exploring a cave with Mayan artifacts and skeletons, wading in the dark through ankle to neck-deep water all-the-while. The later is highly recommended.

MOUNTAIN PINE RIDGE
The 411 - This area suffered from a major fire a few years pack and will take some time to recover.


RECOMMENDED 1-3 WEEK ITINERARY -
Fly into Belize City and head out to San Ignacio area for a few days before going to your Caye(s) of choice.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $8-15/1p
Meal - $1-4/pp
Beer - $1.50
Visa - 90 days FREE

What's to Like?
Minimal tourism + the chill, island vibe with fantastic snorkling + scuba diving, and the fact that Belizians love to party.

What's Not?
Belize City (from what I've been told) + the higher costs.

Will you Starve to Death?
Expect to eat alot of beans + rice and seafood.

Will you Dig It?
If you like to snokel or dive, have limited time + a few extra bucks to blow this is a good pick. They also speak English for those that are intimidated by a new language.

Check the "link" for photos of Belize

HONDURAS Recommendations

FLOR DE COPAN
The 411 - This town makes a nice stop for visiting the interesting cigar factory by the same name.

GRACIAS
The 411 - This little mountain town is a great place to while away a few days. Soak in the vibe and hike to a waterfall in the nearby national park/cloud forest. Recommended.

COPAN/COPAN RUINAS
The 411 - AMAZING Mayan ruins in a surreal setting. Don't miss it! The town by the same name makes a nice base to meet other travelers and head on outings to a nearby Mayan birthing spot in the countryside, exotic bird park, shade-grown coffee plantation + hot springs, where a scalding waterfall falls into a river and you build up river rocks to create a pool to whatever temp you want. Magical!

ROATAN
The 411 - One of the Bay Islands off the coast that boasts the second largest coral reef in the world. Many people swear by this as one of the cheapest + best places to get your diving license. I opted for sea kayaking + snorkeling which was also a good time. Very popular with the backpacking crowd.

TELA/MIAMI
The 411 - Watch yourself here as beach muggings are not uncommon, but I still HIGHLY recommend getting a local to walk with you or taking the daily pickup/bus to the fishing village of Miami for a truly unforgettable experience amongst the Garifuna people. Chances are you'll be the only gringo, but treated like a long lost relative.

LIVINGSTON (Guatemala)
The 411 - A Garifuna town with alot of attitude. Search out the live music on Friday + Saturday nights - Total improv with musicians and singers coming and going, people switching instruments, etc. When I was there there were a couple kinds of drums, someone playing on giant tortoise shells and maracas. People here are super-friendly and many travelers decide to stay awhile. Take the Rio Dulce boat cruise to a natural hot spring WATERFALL at El Paraiso and soak to your hearts content. Plan to spend the night.


RECOMMENDED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY -
Fly into Tegucicalpa and split up the rest of your time between the places listed. It's all good, but Copan, Miami + Livingston were definitely the most memorable.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $5-12/1p
Meal - $2-5/pp
Beer - $1.00
Visa - 90 days FREE

What's to Like?
A blend of grit, culture + beaches offers a little taste of whatever you're craving.

What's Not?
The fact that you've got to be on your game as it's far from crime-free.

Will you Starve to Death?
For vegetarians you'll be living off "Desayuno Tipico" - Tortillas, beans, fried plantain bananas, with or without the scrambled eggs. Don't expect things to be prepared without lard though. Another tasty treat is the super-cheap flour tortillas filled with scrambled eggs, hot sauce + cheese - A great snack anytime. If you eat fish you've got a LOT of options all along the coast and all super fresh.

Will you Dig It?
Not for a first time traveler, but if you're game for a little challenge it's a good time.

Check the "link" for photos of Honduras + this "link" for the Livingston area

EL SALVADOR Recommendations

SAN SALVADOR
The 411 - This capital is not for the faint at heart with uzi-armed security guards on every corner, still, I spent a few interesting days walking all around town. The modern, concrete Iglesia at the old town square is definitely worth a visit if you find yourself here.

SUCHITOTO
The 411 - The best of the bunch of northern towns is this quaint, though dusty place. Enjoy the people and the old, colonial Iglesia.

APANECA
The 411 - A chill town and nice place to enjoy walking around in the surrounding coffee plantations.

EL ZONTE
The 411 - VERY mellow hangout/surf scene with a nice, communal vibe.



RECOMMENDED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY -
Suchitoto + El Zonte are REAL chill (though so is most of the country), but they're my top picks. I'd talk to other people who have visited more recently to see if you should give it a miss or not.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $3-8/1p
Meal - $1-4/pp
Beer - $1.00
Visa - 90 days FREE

What's to Like?
Minimal tourism, the lawless vibe and chill village + beach scenes.

What's Not?
The lawless vibe as it's really not safe to walk around alone, even in broad daylight. I had two police escorts, armed with AK-47's on one outing to a waterfall, and on a beach near La Libertad I was mugged by two, young guys even with people nearby.

Will you Starve to Death?
The bean + cheese papusas with marinated spicy cabbage salad is tasty, but it gets old after awhile. If you eat fish though the coastal eateries will do you right, especially served up with lime + corn tortillas.

Will you Dig It?
With SO many other great options in the World I'd give this one a miss, at least for now.

Check the "link" for photos of El Salvador

ECUADOR Recommendations

QUITO
The 411 - This beautiful + well-preserved colonial capital, and Unesco Heritage Site, is an interesting place to wander by daylight though it's pretty sketchy at night. The new town is where all the evening action lays with dance clubs + international cuisine.

OTAVALO
The 411 - There's a great + totally photogenic local market where women from the countryside converge to sell their wares. Take a boat ride in the nearby volcanic lake + wander the surrounding countryside. I was even lucky enough to catch a village bullfight when I was there.

AVENUE OF THE VOLCANOES
The 411 - You'll definitely need to make an acclimatization trek before attempting to summit any of the big ones. I chose to do a 3-day to the Quilotoa Crater area which was not much of a challenge, but incredibly scenic and could be turned into a longer, more relaxing village experience in it's own right. I'd recommend trying to get higher than this though (El Altar looks stunning and might be a good bet) as my Cotopaxi push was VERY tough and I made it with only 20 minutes to enjoy the summit. I'd do it again in a heartbeat though as watching the sun rise, illuminating mountains and volcanoes peeking above a sea of clouds in the distance was unforgettable! Once at the summit, the views of the smoldering crater of Cotopaxi itself at 5,987 meters with at least a dozen volcanoes and mountains visible from the clear 360 degree view was AWE INSPIRING, to say the least! Chimborazo base camp is also a possibility, and this even in just a day trip if you've been at any altitude. All gear + guides are available to hire in Latacunga and will save you money instead of booking in Quito.


THE AMAZON
The 411 - There are several possibilities here, but I opted for the Cuyabeno preserve near the Columbian border. We saw LOTS of different species of monkeys and birds on our many canoe rides. Also, an anaconda, caiman, pink dolphins, a few species of frogs, a tarantula in our camp, Indian villages, a local Shaman, learned alot about medicinal plants, caught a small piranha, swam in an Amazonian lagoon (very scary considering all the dangerous animals) and made a couple new friends. Pretty action-packed for a 3-day trip!

BANOS
The 411 - A small town in a pretty setting where you can enjoy walks, an erupting volcano, and relax in your pick of thermal baths.

RIOBAMBA/DEVIL'S NOSE PASS

The 411 - An unforgettable train ride that passes through some magnificent scenery that you admire from your rooftop perch.

CUENCA
The 411 - Another beautiful colonial city where you can easily while away a few days soaking in the architecture and strolling around.

VILCABAMBA
The 411 - This chill, little village in the proclaimed "Valley of Longevity" is a good base for day walks.


RECOMMENDED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY -
Fly into Quito (2-3 days) to explore and book onward trips to the Amazon or Galapagos (3-5 days). Make sure to allow some time for Otavalo (2-3 days) for market day before continuing south to Latacunga, your base for jumping off into the Avenue of Volcanoes. You'll need extra time in the area to acclimatize + climb your peak of choice (5-8 days). After, enjoy some time soaking in the baths at Banos (2-3 days), or heading to the coast before heading back to Quito and home. Add in the Devil's Nose Pass (1 day) + Cuenca (2-3 days) if you have extra time.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $3-8/1p
Meal - $1-3/pp
Beer - $1.50
Visa - 90 days FREE

What's to Like?
From stunning mountains to the steamy Amazon to the world-renowned Galapagos, there's action-packed adventure. Add with that a vibrant indigenous people and preserved colonial heritage and you'll get your fix of culture too.

What's Not?
The adventure trips can only be done through an agency and they use the U.S. dollar, so if you're planning on a few activities it'll cost you a bit more than do-it-yourself destinations. Don't let that frighten you away though because it's truly worth every dollar.

Will you Starve to Death?
Lots of potatoes again, but the quinoa is a nice change. Cities like Quito + Cuenca can satisfy every food craving and some do an exceptional job.

Will you Dig It?
Guaranteed.

Check the "link" for photos of Ecuador

VENEZUALA Recommendations

CARACAS
The 411 - A bustling city by day, though a bit sketchy after dark. Be sure to take the cable car north of town up into the hills for spectacular views.

RIO CARIBE
The 411 - This chill, little town makes a good base for exploring the nearby beaches + cocoa plantations. Untouristed, warm water + coconut palms.
Eat - Try the local cocoa liquer at the plantation

SANTA ELENA/RORAIMA
The 411 - This small town is the base for heading on the AMAZING 6-day trek to the top of the Roraima tepui. The famed "Lost World" and it feels like it! The trek up and down is challenging, but once your on top you spend days just playing on black rocks, checking out unique carnivorous plants and orchids, crystal valleys, black prehistoric frogs, and outstanding views. I don't remember if this was the tour agency we booked through in Santa Elena, but this "link" has good info regardless. Ask around for a guide named Gideon from French Guyana. A smiling companion + cook, he really made our experience.

CIUDAD BOLIVAR
The 411 - This charming, colonial city lining the banks of the Orinoco is a nice place to stroll.

ANGEL FALLS/CANAIMA
The 411 - There's a standard 3-day trip into the Canaima area that we really enjoyed where you visit Angel Falls and numerous others. This could be extended for a longer trip if you really enjoy playing in waterfalls.


RECOMMENDED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY -
Fly into Caracas and go from there. Every place listed is recommended and we heard Merida + an island area off the coast are great too. Don't try to pack too much in though as distances are long and we were only able to squeeze in the places listed over a 3 week period.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $8-20/2p
Meal - $3-6/pp
Beer - $2
Visa - 90 days FREE

What's to Like?
Waterfalls and the "Lost World".

What's Not?
Most of the trips can only be done through an agency as access is via plane or 4x4, making it a more expensive destination.

Will you Starve to Death?
It's better than many other South American destinations. You'll chow down on boiled or fried yucca with spicy salsas + bean or cheese arepas.

Will you Dig It?
If you enjoy walking and waterfalls you most certainly will.

Check the "link" for photos of Venezuala

BOLIVIA Recommendations

COPACABANA
The 411 - I HIGHLY recommend taking a boat out to Isla del Sol and spending a minimum of two nights on the island, walking from one end to the other, staying in villages. A very special experience.

SORATA
The 411 - Quaint village in an OUTSTANDING setting with the snow-capped Cordillera Real looming above. Definitely worth a few days soaking up the atmosphere in town + walking in the countryside. This is also a good base for arranging longer treks.

THE MAPIRI TREK (6 Days)
The 411 - THE most physically demanding thing I've ever done in my life - Hands down! For anyone who has ever DREAMED of an Indiana Jones type experience, this is the trek for you! A typical day was 8-13 hours with a fully-loaded pack (fortunately your guide carries most of the food). Beginning in the harsh, but beautiful, barren landscape of the Altiplano and trekking on stone Inkan trails for 2-1/2 days. You're at 4,000-4,500 meters the whole time so it's best to be acclimatized. I was fortunate to have good weather, so I had GREAT views the third day. The fourth day you descend into a region called the Palmalas which is so dense with wet vegetation that most of the time you can't see the ground and you have to hold your hands in front of your face for protection. Everything is wet and slippery, you're falling down, walking through mud puddles up to your shins, crawling on hands + knees through tree-root tunnels seemingly for hours on end... My guide had his machete out literally bushwacking our way through. Sounds like fun, huh?! It was definitely a love-hate relationship! You do that for another 2-1/2 days and then you're in the Yungas, which is completely different - A tropical rainforest with parrots, snakes, monkeys; Walking through beautiful open grasslands and then through dense copses of forest. Dusk was totally magical! The last day you keep going down and it was HOT, not much water (we'd actually run out) and you finally get to BATHE! Ultimately arriving in the little dirt town of Mapiri in the middle of nowhere and the first other people I'd seen all week. The experience is something I will never forget!

LA PAZ
The 411- Nice colonial town at a breath-taking elevation (the highest capital in the World). I headed on a mountain bike ride on "Death Road" from here - Exhilarating + recommended.

SALAR DE UYUNI
The 411 - The largest salt desert in the world. Blindingly white and spectacularly beautiful, it extends in all directions as far as the eye can see. The typical tour is 4 days and continues on to beautiful lakes where we saw many pink flamingos and on another day we got to enjoy sunrise while sitting in some natural thermal baths. Look around for the agency that lets you sleep in the "Salt Hotel" in the Salar. This is a great point for continuing into Argentina.

TUPIZA
The 411 - The little town where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were finally killed. In keeping with the western theme, I went on a 2 day horseback trip into the red canyons and cowboy towns of the area. Beautiful scenery and interesting rock formations, the only downfall is that if you aren't used to horses you may not be able to walk for a couple days afterwards :(

POTOSI
The 411 - An old mining town that was MUCH more beautiful and interesting than I expected. In it's day, it had one of the largest producing silver mines in the world and was the Las Vegas of the time with people gambling and building beautiful colonial homes + churches. The mines are still active, although they're now primarily extracting lead. I took a day tour that was crazy + fascinating as you're actually down there crawling around with a miners lamp, talking with the miners + watching as they rig up explosives! Friday is the best day to go as they pay homage to the "God of the Underworld". Also, make sure to go up the church tower for FANTASTIC views of town.

SUCRE
The 411 - Architecturally interesting, but more hip + touristy than Potosi. Still, a chill place to watch some weaving.

SAMAIPATA
The 411 - A wonderful, little sub-tropical town with lots of green, flowers and palm trees. There are national parks nearby, so I did two different day hikes - One to see condors (saw 4), and the other through a giant fern grove.
Sleep + Eat - There's a WONDERFUL place 10 minutes walk outside of town with camping + cabins. Finca La Vispera, I think it was called. The rooms are immaculately clean with views over the gardens and countryside. They prepare INCREDIBLE fresh, organic food in the restaurant. When you ordered a salad they actually go cut it from the garden, complete with edible flowers!

SANTA CRUZ
The 411 - Not much of interest here, but it's a pleasant enough place to sit in cafes reading or studying Spanish. They also have excellent ice cream - The coconut topped with brazil nuts was very tasty!


RECOMMENDED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY -
Fly into La Paz and spend a couple days acclimatising yourself before doing anything. I liked Bolivia alot and would recommend every place listed depending on your interests.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $2-5/1p
Meal - $1-4/pp
Beer - $1.50
Visa - 90 days FREE

What's to Like?
Mind-blowing + incredibly varied scenery, colonial architecture + indigenous culture, AND it's less touristed than it's neighbors.

What's Not?
I can't think of anything.

Will you Starve to Death?
Not so easy for vegetarians, but you'll get by. Practice saying "Tiene frijoles?"

Will you Dig It?
If you enjoy walking and adventure you most certainly will.

Check the "link" for photos of Bolivia

PERU Recommendations

LIMA
The 411 - It's infamous and steeped in history. Not someplace I'd spend alot of time in, but it's worth checking out the architecture in the old quarter.
Sleep - Hotel Espana is in a great location, has tons of character + a rooftop restaurant

ICA/HUACACHINA
The 411 - Skip Ica and head straight to Huacachina for bungalow accomodations and a relaxed vibe. Don't miss a late afternoon dunebuggie ride through the dunes and sandboarding.

NAZCA
The 411 - Home of the infamously mysterious "Nazca Lines". Not a must-do, but definitely interesting. Make sure to take some motion-sickness pills as many people just end up counting the minutes until it's over.

AREQUIPA
The 411- Beautifully preserved colonial city, friendly people + good food. Make sure to see the Monastery of Santa Catalina + Juanita the frozen "Ice Princess".

COLCA CANYON
The 411 - Not the most interesting or scenic hike I've done, but it's O.K. The villages on the rim and sighting of giant, Andean condors are the highlight of a visit to this area.

CUZCO + THE SACRED VALLEY
The 411 - An even MORE beautifully preserved, colonial town. This place is great for SEVERAL days walking up + down winding stairs through the old town, as well as setting out on foot to the nearby ruins at Sacsayhuaman. Also the perfect place to buckle down and brush up on your Spanish. Classes vary to meet your schedule + desires - Daily, weekly, monthly + private or group classes. My experience with this was VERY positive. Cuzco is also the base for visiting the Sacred Valley (especially Ollantaytambo), booking your Inca Trail trek + checking out the markets + ruins at Piscac, Chinchero + Tipon. Don't rush it! I spent 2-1/2 weeks here NO problem... You could EASILY spend more.
Eat - Jack's has delicious, fresh + innovative western cuisine

MACHU PICCHU
The 411 - Don't even THINK about getting here any other way than the 4-day hike on the Inca Trail. This is too special of a place not to get there the way it was intended.

PUNO
The 411 - This is the base for touring Lake Titicaca from the Peruvian side. The reed islands are interesting, but the overnight island stay is a touristy experience. MUCH better is to explore Isla del Sol from the Bolivian side. See that section for more details.


RECOMMENDED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY -
You have a few options here, but for a first trip of this length I would make Cuzco my base and focus all my time in + around the Sacred Valley.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $4-6/1p
Meal - $1-5/pp
Beer - $1.50
Visa - 90 days FREE

What's to Like?
Unforgetable scenery, Mind-blowing Incan ruins, colonial architecture + indigenous culture.

What's Not?
Lima + overtly amorous men. It's also one of the more touristy countries in South America and sometimes feels like it's completely been packaged, still, it's popular with good reason.

Will you Starve to Death?
Not so easy for vegetarians, but Arequipa + Cuzco have several tasty western-style restaurants that offer something for everyone. You'll definitely get your fill of potatoes.

Will you Dig It?
You've GOTTA go at least ONCE in your lifetime.

Check the "link" for photos of Peru